Kojak's Cafe: Houston Heights spot expands from specialty food import to global fusion dining

Kojak's Cafe at 1912 W 18th St. in Houston's Heights neighborhood operates as a fast-casual restaurant serving multiple culinary traditions under one roof. The establishment has maintained this multi-cuisine model for more than 25 years, distinguishing it from local competitors that typically focus on a single type of food.

The business traces its roots to 1970 when Kojak's Fine Foods opened on Shepherd Drive. That original location specialized in Mediterranean imports, stocking items such as olive oil, feta cheese, and falafel. In 1986, the brothers behind Euro Mid, a specialty food import and distribution firm, acquired the brand. They relocated the operation to its current Grove Heights address in 2000.

Mark Oster purchased the business in 2000 and utilized his culinary education and background in food sales to transform the space. Oster described the initial layout as dominated by an 18-foot deli case and only four or five tables, serving primarily as an office for the distribution company. He gradually removed shelving and added seating to create a dining room centered on chef-driven food.

Oster noted that the restaurant initially operated under the radar, building a loyal customer base through daily specials. This steady growth continued until the 2008 recession impacted the local economy. Simultaneously, the Heights neighborhood underwent demographic changes, with townhomes and apartments replacing some commercial spaces. Oster stated that the business adapted to these shifts by expanding its offerings to retain its audience.

To meet evolving demand, Kojak's added dinner service, a live music stage, and new menu items. One recent addition is a batch of specialty cinnamon rolls named Sydney's Scrolls, which Oster often prepares in-house using a KitchenAid mixer. These sweets were introduced only a few months ago to complement the existing menu.

Despite recent additions, Oster stated that at least 80 percent of the current menu features dishes that have been available since he took over 26 years ago. Long-standing items include Parmesan chicken, chicken enchiladas, and a Greek power bowl containing chicken, quinoa, brown rice, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, avocado, and Greek dressing.

The restaurant continues to rely on its history of daily specials to engage customers. Oster said patrons are generally receptive to new offerings because the establishment built its reputation on changing menus. This approach allows the cafe to blend traditional staples like the gyro pita wrap with newer items, creating a diverse dining experience.